New wines, in consequence of the quantity of carbonic acid they contain, easily induce drunkenness. The acid, disengaging itself by the heat of the stomach, quenches the irritability of the organs, and produces stupor. This theory is founded on the experiments of Bergmann, who has ascertained, that carbonic acid produces its mortal effects, by extinguishing all irritability, to such an extent, that the heart of persons who have suffocated by this gas, exhibit no sign of it. It is known also, that a limb, exposed for some time to the atmosphere of carbonic acid gas, becomes numb. It is not, then, to be wondered at, that when a large quantity of it disengages in the stomach, from liquor swallowed in too great abundance, there should result torpidity, stupor, and intoxication.

Old wines are in general tonic, and very wholesome, suitable for debilitated stomachs, and for old people, and in all cases where it is desirable to give strength. They afford little nourishment, because they have been divested of their strictly nutritive principles, and contain scarcely any other principle than alcohol.

* Reference: A Treatise on the Culture of the Vine and the Art of Making Wine. 1825.
Printed by R. Howe, Government Printer.

In 1833 James Busby wrote: "On returning from visiting the cellar of old wines, I found one of M. Richards sons in the office, who had been 12 months in England and spoke English very correctly. He took me to visit one of the largest proprietors of part of the Hill of Hermitage, which produces the best wines. We found him at home, and walked with him to two of his vineyards". Busby was informed; " The best wines of Hermitage are made exclusively from one variety, the Red Grape named Ciras, and the Hill of Hermitage is so called from an ancient hermitage" (dwelling), and was also told the history of the hermit and observed the ruins of the dwelling that was inhabited by hermits till within the last 100 years.

In the Enologie Francaise, a very minute and correct account of the French vineyards, published 1826, the name of this grape is spelt Seyras; and it stated, that according to the tradition of the neighbourhood, the plant was originally brought from Shiraz in Persia by one of the hermits of the mountain.

It is interesting to note; the man that became the hermit who gathered those Shiraz cuttings from Persia some 100 years before James Busby set foot on the Hill of Hermitage, was once on the same quest as Busby; collecting vine cuttings to plant in another country.

* Reference: Busby "Journal of a Tour". Printed in Sydney 1833 by Stephens and Stokes, King Street

"A Mongrel of a Grape" or Where did our Winemaker Go Right?

In February 1999 prior to the opening of the Waverley Estate Cellar Door, Gary Reed, “Winemaker Extraordinaire”, Terry Maling, principal owner, and myself lined up the range of wines 1989 through to 1996 to taste and evaluate which wines we were going to release on our opening day 27th March, 1999. The tasting was long and arduous but strangely enjoyable, and someone had to do it. We arrived at the 1993 Semillon and proceeded to taste the wine. Our winemaker looked at us very glumly and apologised for the way the wine presented itself. Terry and myself jointly said: “And so you bloody well should apologise chum”. Gary then said: “I don’t know what’s wrong with this wine, I think it is in that strange phase of its development that Semillon frustratingly does so well and lets hope it’s only temporary”. The forlorn wine was then sent back into limbo, hopefully to learn how to behave by further bottle experience. We then just got on with the job to get the Cellar Door open and putting the marketing strategies in place.

In October 2001 the Estate developed the Semillon Retrospective Six Packs, Vintages 1991 through to 1996, which resulted in the 1993 Semillon being called up for duty. I tasted the wine and could not believe what a pleasure it was for my palate. Gary Reed was invited over to the Estate to taste and access this palate pleaser. It was fortuitous our apologising wine maker was seated on a comfortable sofa, as we believe if he had been standing while tasting this wine he would have fallen over. When he realised the wines new personality, his exclamation was and I quote: “Semillon, what a mongrel of a grape”. He then continued, with vigorous animated excitement and announced: “This wine is going to win trophies” his index finger was waving about giving the illusion he was pointing out the fresh air in the room, “and WE” which he repeated “and WE are going to enter it in Museum Class at various Wine Shows”. He then re-affirmed his statement and said; “It will WIN believe me”.

The Estate took “He who has a deep passion for excellence” advice, and as a result this youthful Museum wine excelled at the 2002 Cowra Wine Show and won Best Semillon of the Show, also Best Dry White of the Show. Awarded Two Trophies and a Gold Medal, also awarded a Gold Medal at the N.S.W. Small Winemakers Wine Show 2002, plus 4/1/2 Stars Winestate Magazine Hunter Valley. This amazing wine won a Trophy and a Gold Medal at the Hunter Valley Boutique Winemakers Show October 2002, and then won a Gold Medal at the Australian Small Winemakers Show 2002.
This Aged Semillon has now gained major recognition at the Winestate Magazine Australasian 2002 Wine Championships and Wine of the Year Awards held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel Melbourne 22nd November 2002, it won the Trophy “SEMILLON OF THE YEAR” 2002 and “RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR” 2002 Trophy.

The Estate has now accepted Mr. Gary Reed’s glum apologies. Note: If Semillon confounds and confuses a skilled man like Mr. Reed, I ask, “What hope is there for us mere mortals”?

There is a message here for all Winelovers – It has been estimated that thousands of litres of sound Semillon has been poured down sinks over the years after people have tasted their precious bottle of Semillon while the wine’s personality was temporarily in a depressed state. The message we believe is: “Have faith in Hunter Semillon”.